Days 1- 5
It’s no surprise Japan was at the top of my list of countries to explore. Over 36 million foreigners traveled to Japan in 2024, and with this in mind, I opted for an off-the-beaten-path tour.
So, just how easy is it to visit a country where fewer than 2% of Japanese speakers are fluent in English? I should also mention they use an alphabet filled with Kanji (Chinese characters), so you’ll find tons of that on most of the signage.
Since my future goal is to move to Japan, I put this to the test. Having never been to Japan and with 6 months of learning the basics online (Japanese World Academy), I did some basic research then headed over solo.
Planning My Trip – Using Google My Maps
I didn’t want to get too deep into the details of where to go and what to do, becoming overwhelmed, as I only had 10 full days, so I started with Google My Maps. This is not the same as Google Maps.
In my timeframe, I decided on three places where I would stay, then worked backward from there with my list of things I wanted to do.
This would be Osaka, a Ryokan stay (traditional Japanese Inn) in the Japan Alps and Tokyo. Once I had the pins dropped, I could turn off all the noise, like the roads and the rest of the clutter you get on Google Maps.
Then, using the search bar, you can get a clean visual of the proximity of your wish list and then decide if it’s doable or not. There are lots of YouTube videos on how to maximize Google My Maps for planning a trip.
After landing at Narita Airport in Tokyo, I took a short JAL flight to Osaka, which would be my starting point. I could have flown directly from the U.S. to Osaka, but it’s more expensive to fly in and out of separate airports, and my journey would ultimately end in Tokyo.
JAL was a quick flight and only about 70 bucks. Getting through customs was also easy for two reasons. I had filled out the entry forms online at the Visit-Japan website, so I just needed the QR Code on my phone, and there was staff every step of the way to help out and point the way.
Day One – Window Shopping in Osaka
I scheduled 3 days in Osaka, with one of those used as a day trip to visit the Adachi Museum of Art and Gardens. My base was the Hotel Hankyu Respire near the Shin-Osaka Station. This is a 4-star hotel, but with the weak yen, it was about the same as a Holiday Inn over here.
My first morning was spent wandering around the hood and learning the train and subway system. But first things first. I loaded about $50 on my ICOCA IC card in my Apple wallet and hit an ATM to get 10,000 yen in cash – which was about $66 at the time.
IC cards are like debit cards that work at train stations, vending machines, etc. I thought they were region-specific, but not anymore. I could have just gotten the popular Suica card. It was also super easy to add funds to the card from my Apply Pay.
Walking around the city, you can duck into any of the countless restaurants or Izakaya, a Japanese pub that serves food. You never know where one of these will pop up, sometimes, wandering around a hallway in a building, you’ll stumble upon one.
Ordering Food – Pleasantries Go a Long Way
Pictures of what you can order seemed to be plastered everywhere – outside the restaurant, in windows, and on menus, so all you have to do is point.
It does help to know a few words like mizu (water), ocha (tea), sake (duh), and beeru (beer). Make sure you stretch out the eee’s. Otherwise, you’re ordering a building.
Without turning this into a Japanese lesson, knowing words and phrases like “thank you,” “please,” “excuse me,” and other basic greetings will get you a warm reception. If you make the effort, you’ll be appreciated.
Day 2 – Day Trip to Adachi Museum of Art
On my first day, I also did a dry run on a train going anywhere just to be sure I knew what I was doing. Taking a day trip to the Adachi Museum of Art, turns out I didn’t have this down quite yet. Still, it worked to my advantage. More on that in a minute.
I Think I’m Being Followed – Trolled By Godzilla
My main reason for visiting this place was that for 22 consecutive years, the grounds and gardens have been voted the number one garden in Japan. It’s also listed as a three-star site in the Michelin Green Guide Japan.
Equally important to me, it was way off the beaten path – about a 4-hour journey to the northernmost tip of Honshu Island, one of Japan’s main four islands.
I used ChatGPT to get instructions on reaching all my destinations, and the info was flawless. Not understanding the Shinkansen (bullet train) needed to be boarded at a different station, I ended up missing two trains which was a blessing in disguise.
The parking lot at the museum holds 400 cars and 30 tour buses. Because it was a weekday, still winter, and towards the end of the day (I arrived 3 hours before closing), I pretty much had the entire place to myself. There were just six cars in the parking lot and one small shuttle bus.
The serene gardens, great art, and a quiet tea room with the occasional snowfall placed me in one of Japan’s most beautiful spots without a billion tourists. This was well-played if I do say so myself.
Speaking of well-played, I had to time this perfectly to catch the shuttle back to the train station and make it onto the last train back to Osaka.
I’m OK with adventure, but asking me to survive the night in a small, snowy town where I had no idea where I was, is a little much.
There were also a couple of train changes I needed to make, and I was already well into the evening.
Luckily, at one of these stations, a local waved at me to get over to the platform he was on.
We were the only two people at the station; it was dark, and trains ran like clockwork in Japan. Naturally, I was on the wrong platform.
He even looked at my ticket and showed me where to stand. On a side note, this is typical of the kindness you’ll find throughout the entire country.
Day 4 – Off to a Ryokan with Onsen in Japan Alps
Day three was checking out of the hotel and figuring out how to get to my next destination. Once again, ChatGPT didn’t fail me.
Keep in mind this wasn’t just going from major city to major city. This was another off-the-beaten-path excursion, so there were multiple train changes and stations to navigate.
One of the many conveniences in Japan is being able to ship your luggage to your next destination. I didn’t want to lug around a giant suitcase on a 4-hour train ride and an overnight stay at the Ryokan, so my hotel took care of forwarding my luggage to the hotel I was staying at in Tokyo. I just had a day pack with my laptop and a change of clothes.
Luggage forwarding might not seem like a novel idea, but for crying out loud, you can do this from a 7-11 in Japan. These are known as “Konbini” (convenience stores). This is another good word to know because you can buy almost anything there, including a decent late-night meal.
Yunoshimakan Ryokan and Hot Springs
I chose Yunoshimaken in the village of Gero, because it seemed like the halfway mark on my journey from Osaka to Tokyo, and It was ranked number one in the Chubu area of the “Top 10 Japanese Hot Spring Ryokans 2024.”
The hot springs baths are called “onsens” and are usually piped in from volcanic areas, allowing you a super hot mineral bath. It also checked all the boxes for being in a forest surrounded by cedar and cypress trees that are hundreds of years old.
I was also searching on Google My Maps for a good day hike and Mt. Norikura Goshikigahara Forest seemed like a great place, less than an hour away.
I should have researched this a little more, as it is a protected forest, and you can only go in with a guide. Guided tours don’t start till May, which also makes sense since the snow was deep and nights were hitting around -5 below zero. Regardless, Yunoshimakan was an amazing place to stay. That is, once I got there.
The inn was about a 20-minute walk from the Gero Train Station, and I wanted to see the village, so I decided to walk. It was about 1.5 miles up a mountain hillside, and it started to snow hard.
My goal was to beat the daylight before the road iced over and sent me back down the mountain. Should have taken the free shuttle. I’ll have to file this under “What the hell was I thinking?”
The ryokan experience was amazing, which included a traditional Japanese room and a private multi-course dinner.
Upon arrival, you surrender your shoes for slippers, and hot tea is brought to your room by the staff.
Then you slip into your Yukata, and you’re free to roam around. Basically, all the guests are in slippers and a bathrobe. A little quality time in the onsen worked its magic and thawed me out for the duration of my stay.
The next morning, I planned my trip to Tokyo, specifically the Shibuya ward. While waiting at the Gero train station, there was only a small space heater, and the place was freezing cold.
Since the station was nearly empty, I decided to have the Ticketmaster upgrade my ticket to a reserved seat – what a lucky move.
When my train arrived, it was packed with the aisles wall-to-wall with people who didn’t have reserved seats. If I didn’t make that move, I would have been standing for nearly 3 hours.
Travel Tip: Although most of Japan is cashless or accepts credit cards, it’s a good idea to have some yen handy. To upgrade on the Limited Express from Gero, it was cash only (although I bought my original ticket on a credit card). I recall it was about $30 in yen for the upgrade.
Final Thoughts: A Journey Beyond Expectations
Traveling through Japan with just a basic knowledge of the language and an adventurous spirit proved to be an incredible experience.
While navigating trains, ordering food, and adjusting to cultural differences had its challenges, the kindness of locals and the country’s seamless infrastructure made the journey not only manageable but deeply rewarding.
From the vibrant streets of Osaka to the serene gardens of the Adachi Museum, and finally to the rejuvenating experience of a Ryokan in the Japan Alps, this trip was a perfect balance of adventure, culture, and relaxation.
The ease of digital tools like Google My Maps and ChatGPT simplified the logistics, while Japan’s thoughtful conveniences—like IC cards and luggage forwarding—allowed me to travel light and stress-free.
